Pretty soon you stop noticing that the hotel receptionist is wearing a Kevlar vest. And after a while the armed police on the corner acknowledge you with the merest hint of a nod, not wishing to break their constant sweep of the street in front of them. The window bars were also troubling at first. Reassuring touch of security but how do you get out if the place were to catch fire?
Security was everywhere in Fortaleza. They say 60,000 police and troops are on duty throughout the Cup and on this evidence thats believable. But once you get used to it, the security is actually very well done. Very visible. Non threatening. But a constant signal to wayward fans and local criminals alike.
Of course, security incidents are neither in the interests of the Brazilian authorities nor FIFA and clearly a large slice of the Cup budget has been spent maintaining the peace. In hindsight, the cynical side of me suspects that the small incident on the opening day was somewhat staged in order for the authorities to demonstrate their intent. At the very least the they went looking for an opportunity to make the point!
But as we leave Fortaleza we do feel like we\’ve been in a bubble. Our plan all along was to not get separated from the herd. And stay with the herd we did. Our hotel was towards the very edge of the bubble. A couple blocks west and the neighborhoods presented a different side of Fortaleza with it\’s shattered buildings and air if open criminality. Although business was surely good, and safer than normal for the girls working the street corners as they chatted to the armed policeman. But to the east the Cup was in full throw with thousands from all over the world thronging the ocean side bars and cafés protected by and mostly oblivious to the bubble of security around them.
We asked ourselves if we would recommend Fortaleza as a vacation spot. I think the answer is a reserved yes. Friendly, welcoming people, beautiful tropical beaches, great food, upmarket shops and restaurants, 5 hr flight direct from Miami. What a wonderful holiday destination. The reservation? What\’s it like when the Cup isn\’t in town? While security was reassuringly successful for those of us visiting for the Cup, the fact that the authorities felt the need for such a display, left us wondering what it\’s like for locals and regular tourists the rest of the time. Let\’s hope the Brazilian and Fortalezian authorities can get control of whatever crime problem they fear, because this is a beautiful place that others need to come see.
What! Scotland Qualified!!! 